Hoping to escape from the general insanity of holidays with my family, my husband and I decided at the last minute to take a 4 hour drive up to Bar Harbor. Don't ask me why we chose that place. Perhaps it was because we'd never been there. Perhaps it was because we couldn't think of anywhere else to go quickly enough. We were considering Montreal or Quebec City but had ruled them both out because the drive was too long for the three days we had available. Bar Harbor seemed like the perfect getaway once it had popped into our heads but our resolve weakened as we found fewer and fewer accommodations open after Thanksgiving.
We were absolutely desperate to get away and relieved to find one motor inn that was still booking. We had a tentative list of things to do to beat back boredom but mostly we planned to sit around in our underwear, watch television, and eat a lot of food that we wouldn't be cooking ourselves.
We put in a few hours of work and then set sail in the early afternoon, forgoing the beautiful drive along Route 3 from Augusta so that we could make good time before the sun set. We passed countless hotels, motels, and rental cottages that had been shuttered for the season and more than a few powerful sea vistas along the way before arriving at
Hanscom's.
From our first impressions of the town, we could see that it is likely chaotic during the summer time, swollen with all manner of tourists eager to get a taste of Maine living. Acadia National Park, a place we decided to hold off visiting until better weather permitted, is essentially Bar Harbor's back yard and it was obvious from the preponderance of souvenir shops that Bar Harbor may not be the place for us when things get into full swing come summer. It became apparent pretty quickly that winter on the island was definitely more our speed.
That first night, we had dinner at
Geddy's, a kitschy, tourist establishment in downtown Bar Harbor. Geddy's definitely catered to the "people from away" with their lobster, lobster, lobster and their humorous take on the best and worst of Northern New England lifestyles. In fact, everyone around us in the place (a surprising number for the ass-end of December) was from elsewhere, even our waiter. The food was tasty but certainly nothing exceptional.
No, the best meals we had in Bar Harbor (and the highlight of our trip was certainly all the eating) was dinner the second night at
McKay's Public House and breakfast one morning at
Mad Hatter.
McKay's is in a Victorian house in downtown Bar Harbor and the seating is intimate and warm. What was once parlors and sitting rooms, family dining and bedrooms have been converted to close (but comfortable) dining, softly lit by table lamps and holiday lights. We couldn't stop running our hands over the copper tabletops while we waited for our feast: a 1.5 lb boiled lobster for the hubs, the winter pan chicken for me, and scallion potato latkes as a mouth-watering appetizer.
If you've never been to Maine in the winter (or anywhere that gets snow enough to accumulate over the course of long, cold months), you might not realize how difficult it is to park on the street. You have to sidle up close to sometimes enormous snow banks that eat up precious space in the street, try not to dig your tires into the snow so that you'll spin out when you leave, all while parking far enough away to allow passengers to get out without losing your drivers side-view mirror. I was engaged in just such a maneuver, letting the hubs out at an opening in the snow and backing into my spot, when a truck came up beside me and swiftly backed into my space. I rolled my window down to ask my husband if there was space enough for me to park with the truck in the space I was just trying to back into. He shook his head with a grim look when the truck driver jumped out of the truck and approached the hubs, apologizing profusely for the snub. I pulled up to the next block and found another spot and, when I joined my husband, the man was still apologizing. Frustrated though I was when it happened, the man was so extremely nice and charming that I immediately forgave him. He walked in with us, called the host by name and told him what he had just done to us and insisted that we be treated well. Perhaps that experience went a long way to color my perception of the evening but I definitely think dinner there was the highlight of the trip.
The breakfast at Mad Hatter's is another story entirely. We had no clue what would be open in town when we wandered in around 11am. As soon as we turned onto Cottage Street, we saw a breakfast sign in a storefront, threw the car in park, and beat a quick path to their door. We must have caught them opening because we were the only people there and the two staff were busy putting down chairs and taking care of all of the other business of starting a restaurant day. I felt as though I was imposing and considered leaving, but they graciously seated us and served us a most delicious and surprising meal. The venue looked, with its bright green walls and arcade games and big screen TVs, like a sports bar so we were completely floored when they served us beautifully presented breakfast foods that were a far cry from the deep fried hangover meal we were expecting.
Mostly, we were true to our plans and spent the majority of our time sitting around in our underwear in the cottage watching the non-stop cheese fest that is Burn Notice but we did venture out one afternoon to find
The Ovens. The Ovens are cave-like formations cut into the cliffs of Mt. Desert Island by the whims of a sometimes vicious sea. I had read that they were best reached at low tide and, after a scramble down the cliffs (no small task with snow and ice involved), we hiked along the beach for about a mile until we found them.
We took a few photos, arranged lobster carcasses as sculpture on the black rocks, and played with the giant icicles like they were swords before hoofing it back to spot where we climbed down just as the tide began to come back in. We were so wiped out that we took a long nap before dinner and generally did precisely what we were supposed to do: relax.
Labels: bar harbor, maine, things to do
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